Iloilo
Treasures
Seven treasured treasures of Iloilo
By Edu Jarque (The Philippine Star)
A proud display of
provincial pride at the Riverside Boardwalk with (from left) Glenn Loop, Honey
Jarque-Loop and the author
MANILA, Philippines -
On a recent visit to Iloilo, experts from the Department of Tourism Regional
Office Western Visayas, headed by Helen Catalbas, were challenged by our
discerning traveling group to share with us a jam-packed weekend itinerary that
went beyond the usual affair of festivals.
Inside-out and by
heart, they know their hometown. They delivered with soaring colors as we
explored so many places that it felt like the time from morning ‘til night was
never enough. As my sister Honey Jarque-Loop would say, it is the wonderful
variant of tiredness from 30-hour days of pure enjoyment.
Iloilo has a whole
lot more to offer, but here are our memorable seven.
1. The view from the throne
The most sensible
starting point to map one’s way through the province is peek at its local seat
of power. The Iloilo City Hall is a fine example of a building that serves as
the perfect avenue for an introduction to its seven districts: Jaro, Molo, La Paz,
Mandurriao, Villa Arevalo, Lapuz and the City Proper.
Proudly displayed in
galleries are the too-many-to-count awards the metro has received. Metropolitan
yet alive with tradition, one gets the idea that Iloilo is a progressive yet
preserved urban locale of development and history.
This was made more
apparent when our guide, Erlyn Alunan, rattled off the many firsts that had
their origin in the province — from Hoskyn’s, the Philippines’ first Department
Store, Iloilo Golf and Country Club, the first golf course in the islands, and
the Iloilo-Negros Air Express, the country’s first.
After this historical
look of iconic beginnings — the list goes on, mind you — we made our way to the
penthouse to catch the gorgeous view from that vantage point, where we had a
prelude of the days to come.
We spotted the city’s
downtown preserved Heritage District, the province’s Escolta, the Calle
Real andPlaza Libertad, surrounded by Commonwealth era
buildings that survived World War II.
There was also Muelle
Loney on the western side of the river that is now used for roll-on-roll-off ferries,
but was then instrumental to the region’s prosperous sugar industry from the
1800s to the 1900s.
2. The past cherished
Iloilo’s
archeological and cultural heritage is beautifully exhibited in the
government-run Museo
Iloilo. Designed by local architect Sergio Penasales, it houses
relevant objects from the past, as well as modern art by Ilonggo artists and
craftsmen.
It
has a permanent exhibit that features items from prehistory, to the era of
conquests, such as carbon-dated remains of Stone Age pottery, tribal weaponry
and tools, fossils, ornaments, blue and white Chinese ceramics, burial urns,
and Christian sculptures, along with a diorama of an Ati Family, to modern-day
contemporary works.
Quaint
and managed with meticulous awareness of the pricelessness of the objects it
gives home to, it is wonderful to note that it is accessible to most, with a
mere five-peso entrance fee.
3. Churches, churches, churches
There
are so many! Each is unique, but here are the ones we remembered best.
We
have the beautiful Jaro Cathedral. It is the location of the National Shrine of
Our Lady of Light, Nuestra
Señora de la Candelaria, with a glass-encased image believed to
be growing taller over time within a limestone grotto.
The
Romanesque and Gothic themed Molo Church or the Church of St. Anne is a
landmark attraction dubbed the feminist
church as it
is home to numerous images of female saints.
At
the outskirts of town, stands the monolithic fortress of the Sto. Tomas de Villanueva, or the Miag-ao Church, which was
declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The
Church of San Joaquin is most distinctly remembered for its militaristic
intricate reliefs in depiction of the Battle of Tetuan.
4. Homes, beautiful homes
Predominantly
celebrated and well-maintained, Iloilo’s heritage houses are a must-see for
historical buffs, architects and lovers of la buena
vida.
The
first of which is Nelly Garden, the luxurious residence of philanthropist
and statesman Vicente Lopez and his wife Elena Hofileña, who named it after
their daughter Nelly. Though no pictures are allowed inside, it is definitely a
home oozing with elan and fineries.
Casa
Mariquit, on the other hand, is more than 200 years old and built for the
former Mariquit Javellana by her father Ramon. She married Fernando Lopez, who
was elected vice president of the land, and the house now hosts a wide array of
memorabilia of the man of power.
Abandoned
for many years to neglect and degradation, the Yusay Consing Mansion, the
former residence of the Petra Lacson who married G Yusay, the first judge of
Manila, is another heritage edifice in Molo District. It is presently closed
for viewing. However, SM Group recently acquired the property and has started
to restore the historical site to its old grandeur.
5. On the banks
The
Riverside Boardwalk is the city’s newest ground for urban and commercial
development, with various shops, restaurants and relaxing esplanades near and
by the river. It is one of the most visited attractions that combine the
natural beauty of water, sun, sky and stars, with the upbeat universe of modern
establishments.
6. Of course, food
Who
can forget the food of Iloilo? So diverse and delectable are they that each
district is known for its specialty. The City Proper has the chicken inasal, Mandurriao the kansi, Jaro its pastries, Lapuz its
coffee, Molo its soup, and of course, La Paz its batchoy.
At
the top of my mind, I remember Camiña
Balay Na Bato for its
organic cuisine and nostalgic ambiance, and Rafael Tibong Jardaleza II’s La Cucina Del Sur, brimming with homely
comfort food cooked with lots of innovation and originality.
Our
choices for take-home goodies include Agnes Tirol’s Lemon Squares from Sweet
Treats and Mama’s Kitchen Mango Chewies.
7. The blank space
I
suppose you’re wondering about the seventh. I have found it in Iloilo, but it’s
mine to keep. It’s up to you now to discover your own treasures on your next visit!
Ask
me if I’m going back to Iloilo, the answer is obvious.
A
big delicious yes.
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